Boat Winterization Saves Headaches
Next Spring
by Tim Shamess
I don't want to be the bearer of bad news, but it's that time again. The
leaves are starting to change colour, there is frost in the air, and snow in the weather
forecast. It's time to start thinking about winterizing you boat. With a little time and
effort you can keep your boat from becoming a maintenance nightmare next spring.
 The most
important job is to properly winterize your motor. There are a few things to do and they
are not overly hard. Damage can occur from rust and the freezing of water in the lower end
unit of your motor. Drain the gear oil from the lower end unit, there are usually
two screws on the side of the motor near the propeller. Place a container underneath the
motor to catch the gear oil, take both the top and bottom screw out. If you only take out
the bottom screw, a vacuum may occur and nothing will come out. Watch
the oil; if you see water, or if the oil appears milky coloured, it may be a sign of
trouble to come. It may mean leaking seals in the lower end of your motor, a sign of
possible damage.
You now need to replace the gear oil. I have a little trick that a
neighbour taught me. I have a small garden sprayer, the kind that you can pump up and
pressurize with a pump handle. I put my gear oil in it. I then put the nozzle end into the
bottom hole and spray the oil into the lower end. When the oil comes out the top hole,
stop spraying the oil, but keep the nozzle of the garden sprayer in the bottom hole to
keep the oil from leaking out. Quickly put the screw into the top hole, when the screw is
tight, this will create a vacuum keeping the oil from running out the bottom. You can now
quickly put the bottom screw in; this can be tricky, especially if you are a butter
fingers like me.
To protect the carburetor and other internal workings of the motor you
need to fog the engine with an engine storage spray. You need to have the engine running
in water. You can do this at the dock, in a water barrel, or with a pair of ear muffs and
a garden hose over the water pickups. As the engine runs, spray the engine storage spray
into the carburetor. This can be quite challenging if you have more then one carb on your
motor (mine has three!). Keep spraying until the engine begins to smoke, it may take 20 or
30 seconds. You may have to increase the rpm. to keep the motor from stalling out before
it is properly fogged. When the motor begins to smoke, disconnect the fuel line and run
the engine until it stalls. You want to get the fuel out of the carbs; if any is left, a
build-up of deposits may occur from the evaporating fuel. Any rubber parts can be affected
as well. I like to take the spark plugs out at this point and spray some of the engine
storage spray into the cylinders. I then turn the engine a few turns by hand. This will
ensure that the cylinder walls, pistons and rings will be well lubricated and eliminate
the possibility of rust.
Next take the propeller off, and remove any weeds and fishing line that
may be wrapped around the propeller shaft. Inspect the seals around the prop shaft, look
for any cracking or leaking. Lubricate the prop shaft with the recommended lubricant and
inspect the propeller for any cracks or signs of damage, Your boat will be parked for a
few months; now is the perfect time to send your propeller out for repairs. Lower the
motor to its normal operating position and turn the ignition over a few times to get any
remaining water out of the cooling system. When you are sure all the water has drained
out, spray the exterior of the motor with silicone or some other similar light lubrication
spray; this will prevent corrosion. Put a heavy plastic bag over the bottom end of the
motor. Use duct tape to hold it on. This will prevent any mice or other small animals from
nesting inside your water intakes or propeller. You may want to add some fuel stabilizer
to you fuel tanks; this will help keep the gas from causing varnish deposits. Leave room
in your fuel tanks so you can add fresh gas in the spring.
"When gas was better quality, we would recommend completely filling
the fuel tanks, thus eliminating the possibility of condensation building up inside the
tanks," my neighbour and licensed Mercruiser and OMC marine mechanic Edmund told me.
" We now recommend emptying the fuel tanks and adding conditioner to each tank."
I recommend that you check with a marine mechanic trained on your specific
model of outboard, or your dealer for the recommended fuel conditioner. Be sure to follow
the directions exactly. Any electrical connections should be coated with grease to
keep rust from giving you electrical problems in the spring. While you are at it, it won't
hurt to check your owner's manual for all the lubrication points and give everything the
recommended lubricant. Remove any electronic devices and store them in a clean, dry area
inside. I once had a fish finder that never worked right again after a winter in the boat.
The terminals on your battery should be cleaned and given a light coat of
grease. Check the level of battery fluid and bring the battery to a full charge. Store the
battery indoors in a warm area, do not place your battery on a concrete floor, it will
drain the power in no time. About mid -winter, I like to put my battery on the charger,
just to be sure it is strong and holding its charge
My boat has carpeting on the floors. I like to give the carpeting a
thorough vacuuming, and I wash the vinyl on the seats and use a protectant on them. I give
the entire boat a good wash and wax; this helps keep the fibreglass from fading or
discolouring. Make sure all the compartments, live wells, and the bilge area are dry. A
sponge works well to get any water out. I prop any compartments open to allow air
circulation and prevent mould and mildew from forming. A few strategically placed moth
balls will also deter rodents from nesting, and help with preventing mould and mildew. A
few in each compartment and space are all it takes. Be sure to remove any life jackets,
rain suits or other similar items, give them the recommended cleaning (life jackets
usually have a tag with instructions on the recommended method) and store in a clean dry
area.
Since I store my boat outside, I have a commercially available cover that
I use; I also use a framework of 2x4's to keep the tarp held up in the middle, as heavy
snow puts a lot of weight on the tarp. The framework helps keep snow and rain off the
boat. I keep the bow of the boat held up and the plug out; that way any moisture can drain
out.
When it comes to my trailer, I always repack the bearings with grease,
checking the bearings for wear as well. If water has entered a hub, it can cause rust, or
even crack a hub while it sits over the winter. I check the tire pressure and jack the
trailer off the ground to get the weight off the tires. It is possible to get a flat spot
on the tires if they sit too long. I give the trailer coupler, body and the suspension
components a visual inspection and check all bolts for tightness; then I give the coupler
a coat of grease.
I always take the lights apart to ensure no water is sitting inside of
them. I make sure the lights work and then give the contacts a coat of grease. The
electrical connector on both the trailer and my vehicle get a visual inspection and a
light coat of grease. I also have a small rubber cap that put over the connectors. I
learned my lesson after my wife got a grease spot on her winter coat after she threw it in
the back of our van.
While these methods work for me and my boat and outboard, they may not be
the exact method for you. If you are in doubt, check your owner's manual, or talk to your
marine repair shop; they should be able to offer the advice you need to tackle your own
boat. A little time and effort now will save a lot of grief in the spring, and maximize
your time on the water. |
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